- #BLACK 3 WAY SWITCH HOW TO#
- #BLACK 3 WAY SWITCH MANUAL#
- #BLACK 3 WAY SWITCH PROFESSIONAL#
- #BLACK 3 WAY SWITCH FREE#
Sometimes the Z-Wave controlled lights do not come on if the DIVA controlled LED lights are already on – but only sometimes. There appears to be a conflict of some sort between the DIVA switch and the Z-Wave switch. (A DIVA type of switch is required to control the feed to the power supply used for the LED strip lights.) There are also 2 other regular switches in the 4-switch electrical box. I have a Lutron DIVA switch controlling some LED strips in the coffered ceiling. I have a Z-Wave switch controlling some LED-bulbed can lights over our mantle. I stumbled across this blog and am hoping someone can offer some insight into a problem I have.
#BLACK 3 WAY SWITCH FREE#
Feel free to share your tips, questions, and experiences in the comment section below! I hope this has helped answer some questions you may have had about wiring your Z-Wave switches. Just remember that you will only be able to manually dim from the master location and that you will still need a neutral wire at the main location. Their devices don't require dedicated auxiliary switches and you can just use your existing on/off 3-way switch in multi-point control set-ups. If you don't feel like spending extra money on the add-on switches, check out the Zooz product line.
#BLACK 3 WAY SWITCH HOW TO#
Here is a great video from Jasco with a step-by-step guide on how to install a 3-way Z-Wave switch: The add-on does not include to the Z-Wave system but merely transmits any status changes to the master switch through electrical impulse communicated via the traveler wire. If you have a set-up like that, you need to make sure none of the wires you connect to the add-on switch is hot, otherwise the switch may be damaged easily. That is the most popular configuration used by GE/Jasco for example.
#BLACK 3 WAY SWITCH MANUAL#
And then for additional manual control, you have the add-on switch which must NOT be powered up and connects to traveler, neutral, and ground only. When wiring two smart switches to control the same light, you have what we call a master switch which is connected to the load, line, neutral, traveler and ground and which also includes to your Z-Wave system. MASTER THE 3-WAYģ-way installation is different for Z-Wave switches than for regular electrical switches. Or ask The Smartest House support team! 3. Always examine the specifications for each device carefully and compare it against the manual for your Z-Wave switch. This is due to the TRIAC electronic component these devices are based on - it needs enough load to operate.ĭon't forget that any motor loads like gas dryers will consume more power at start-up that mentioned in the specs. So make sure there are no transformers along the way (common for low-voltage lighting), and preferable more than a couple of high-quality LED bulbs on the circuit. Most Z-Wave switches require at least 20 Watts on load and need to be connected to resistive load. Remember to check for neutral connection in every gang box you plan to replace with a Z-Wave switch, especially if you live in an older house! 2. We have found that professionals often approach Z-Wave equipment as if it was a simple electrical switch which may cause the device to malfunction. If you decide to hire an electrician to complete the installation, have them read the manual as well. Line and load are sometimes swapped in standard switch installations so it's best no to rely on original layout exclusively.
#BLACK 3 WAY SWITCH PROFESSIONAL#
If you are not sure which one is load and which one is line, use a professional multimeter (your regular $10 multimeter will not be accurate enough) or better, consult a licensed electrician. READ THE MANUAL, FOLLOW THE DIAGRAMĪll Z-Wave lighting controls need to be wired exactly according to the user manual, with neutral, line, and load identified correctly on the first try. That’s why I’ve compiled a short list of do’s and don’ts that will help you navigate and ease your Z-Wave switch installation process.
It’s worth mentioning, by the way, that after this initial set-up phase, my Z-Wave switches have made all the difference when it’s come to making my home more energy-efficient and convenient for me. For example, unlike regular switches, your Z-Wave switches should be connected exactly as indicated in the manual and require a minimum load to function properly. They include into your network like any Z-Wave device, but they also have different specifications. Setting up my smart devices is usually fun, but I’ve always needed a bit more patience when it comes to wiring my Z-Wave switches.
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